A Good Story Has to Be Distilled: North Dublin & City Center

This year Chris and I traveled to Dublin three times: for the Flight of the Conchords (postponed), Flight of the Conchords (rescheduled), and to see a They Might Be Giants show. All three visits were amazing and I am thankful for the opportunities to explore Ireland while also seeing two bands that I have loved for literally ten years.

Due to the sheer gorgeousness and amazing food the city has to offer, I’ll be dividing up our Dublin adventures into two posts: North of the City Center/City Center(ish) and North Wall/Dublin Bay. These divisions are extremely geographically scientific (not) and based mostly on how we explored the city.

Where are we?

Dublin is the largest and capital city of Ireland. Established in the 7th century (!!) by Celtic speakers, Dublin was later expanded by the Vikings in the 10th century and remained under their control until 1169 when the Norman invasion of Ireland began from Wales. Divided by the River Laffey, the city is also near next to Dublin Bay, an inlet of the Irish Sea. The Easter Rising of 1916, the Irish War of Independence, and the Irish Civil War all contributed greatly to the destruction of Dublin.

While the British crushed the Irish uprising in 1916, the support for an Irish Free State, free entirely from British rule, grew until civil war broke out between the two groups. In May 1921, Ireland was partitioned by the British, resulting in the creation of Northern Ireland, which remained under British rule, and the Irish Free State, which later became Ireland. Gaelic originated in Ireland and remains the national and first official language of the city.

The Sights:

Mural of characters from James Joyce’s Ulysses by Irish artist James Earley.

The Jameson Distillery! Definitely take the tour if you have a chance. Their tours are fun, interactive, and include a free drink.

A tasting comparing different types of whiskey.

1024px-2009-09-27_dublin_garden_of_remembrance_054 — The Garden of Remembrance (via Culture Trip) commemorates those who gave their lives for the Irish fight for freedom. A poem by Liam Mac Uistin at the monument includes the final line: ‘Bondage became freedom and this we left to you as your inheritance. O generations of freedom remember us, the generations of the vision.’

Via the Irish Times. The Winding Stair is an AMAZING bookstore with a ton of options and features a selection of Irish authors.

Restaurants & Bars:

Brother Hubbard:

Brother Hubbard North is an amazing middle eastern inspired brunch and dinner restaurant located just a short walk from the river. Chris had a breakfast sandwich and I happily ordered this glorious avocado toast with poached eggs.

Woodstock Phibsborough:

Woodstock is located about a thirty-minute walk from Dublin’s city center and has a ton of great breakfast options. The cafe has a cafeteria-ordering style which means you can get #ALLTHETHINGS plus whatever complete menu dishes you’d like. Again, I went with the homemade toast and poached eggs.

The Woolen Mills:

So good we had to go twice. The Woolen Mills is located right on the river and next to the Winding Stair, which is perfect for people who love bookstores and changing menus (me). They offer really unique dishes and cocktails, and with the tables in front of the kitchen, customers can watch the chefs as they cook. I can’t recommend the Woolen Mills enough.

Irish onion squash with Cooleeney cheese, tomato, onion, and sage polenta.

The Black Sheep:

We loved the Black Sheep! Owned by Galway Bay Brewery, the restaurant boasts a ton of craft beer taps, wings, and a stellar Irish cheese plate. Initially, we thought we’d visit for an hour or two, but ended up staying for dinner. Highly recommend.

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The Bald Eagle:

The Bald Eagle Food & Beer Co. is a great pub located near Woodstock. Super relaxed and with a solid craft beer menu, they also have a great late night “proper food” menu including wings, nachos, and best of all, GARLIC BREAD.