Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette (2006) vibes captured by Home Base Bri.
It’s always nice to pause between prepping cabbage rolls and stirring a vegan version of New Year’s Stew to reflect on the year. A year packed with new adventures, personal growth, and, of course faithfully upholding a few annual traditions — who has the time to stress over the uncontrollable when there are four seasons of the OC to binge watch once again — but I’ll stick to just the travel bits here (saving the discussion on Frank vs. the Bullit for another time).
A little love from Manchester.The rare double rainbow (!) from our porch from this fall.
In addition to places I explored, libraries and bookstores I visited, and a couple of winter markets seen, this year I included a section on memory sites as well. As I am not super great (tbh a little imposter syndrome creeping in) or consistent at publishing memorial research, I wanted to provide a little context to some of the places I visit beyond just my favorite photo.
This segment briefly discusses topics of genocide and colonization. Please take care when reading ❤
For a massive overview of food, drinks, and bread I’ve baked from last year — this post.
Hamburg’s main library, Buecherhallen, is the largest in the city.Felix Jud & Co.
Istanbul, Türkiye:
The Women’s Library and Information Centre Foundation (WLICF) is the first and only women-centered library and archive in Türkiye.“The institution frames and constitutes the memory of women and the women’s movement, and the growth of our collection is parallel to the development of the feminist consciousness in Turkey.“Beyazit State Library is one of the oldest in the country.
Lublin, Poland:
Lublin’s “Green Public Library” hosts exhibits and environmental education in addition to their cozy spaces and collections available for checkout.
Manchester, United Kingdom:
Paramount BooksManchester Central LibraryFounded in 1653, Chetham’s Library is the oldest public library in the English speaking world. Alas, I wasn’t able to book a tour but there’s always 2024.House of Books & FriendsQueer Lit
Munich, Germany:
Bavarian State Library is the largest universal and research library in Germany. The massive building is known for its staircase (pictured here).The absolutely gorgeous Juristische Bibliothek (Munich Law Library).
Winter Markets:
Köln, Germany:
Köln is known for its cathedral (the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe) and its many markets. It was lovely to meet a friend here but we chose to have our coffee on the outside looking on as the markets were absolutely packed to the rim with people.
Manchester, United Kingdom:
The market food options were out.of.control with a ton of vegan dishes.
Munich, Germany:
The Tollwood Winter Festival is one of the “alternative” markets in Munich and known for its organic food options (pack your backpack tupperware — seriously!) and original displays, including this one which is giving real Beyoncé Renaissance Tour vibes.The Bahnwärter Thiel Christmas Market is top of my favorites list. Hosted at a repurposed abandoned train station, the market includes independent craft vendors, a restaurant located in an old train car (pictured here on the left), and especially for us, an authentic lángos stand. My brother in law was a good sport about this stop because my excitement was peak-Ashlyn levels.
Weihnachtsmarkt in der Ravennaschlucht (Ravenna Gorge), Germany:
I was finally able to buy tickets to the coveted Christmas market located under the Ravenna bridge. Entrance (and transit) tickets are limited but this was so worth the time and planning to visit Germany’s Black Forest.
Memorial Sites:
Berlin, Germany:
Recently there has been a greater effort to recognize and memorialize people of African descent who were victims of the Nazi regime in Germany. Many were killed, forcibly sterilized, or removed from their homes, particularly in Berlin. In May 2023, Stolperstein (“stumbling stones”) were laid for Zoya Gertrud Aqua-Kaufamann and her son. Born in Berlin in 1918, Zoya suffered from racism, exclusion, and persecution when the Nazis gained power in 1933. In 1936, she, along with a Jewish girl in her class, was asked to leave; she was banned from holding a job in 1939. The following year, Zoya went into hiding to escape deportation and forced sterilization. She and her son escaped to Prague but were captured by the Gestapo. After being imprisoned, Zoya and her son Hans-Joachim survived the abuse they suffered and managed to returned to Berlin at the end of WWII in 1944.This summer I had the opportunity to visit the Platform 17 Memorial at Grunewald Station after seeing a photo in this article by Clint Smith. The image above shows the entrance to the former Deutsche Reichsbahn train platform where nearly 10,000 German Jewish people were deported to concentration and labor camps in occupied Riga, Warsaw, Auschwitz-Birkenau, and Theresienstadt. This concrete wall serves as a symbol of the long journeys endured by those forced to make their way to the station. Just past this space, in the open air memorial, are 186 cast steel plates on the railroad tracks, each bearing the date and destination of those deported from this location.
Dachau, Germany:
Located outside of Munich, Dachau was the first and longest-running concentration camp established by the Nazis: founded just weeks after coming into power (1933) and one of the last liberated by Allied forces. The forced labor camp imprisoned those opposed to the regime, “undesirable” people including queer, Jewish, and Polish people, as well as POWs from the Soviet Union, France, and the Netherlands. Memorialization of the site began in 1965 and contains an impressive amount of archival research. The International Monument (pictured here) was built in 1968 by Nandor Glid, a Jewish survivor from Yugoslavia.
Istanbul, Türkiye:
The site where Armenian activist Hrant Dink was assassinated on January 19th, 2007. Aras Publishing — the first and one of the few publishers of bilingual Armenian and Turkish books — is still located on the second floor.Now known as the Union of Municipalities Building, the former official residence (1917 – 1918) of the Ottoman Empire’s grand vizier Talat Pasha, is located right next to the Basilica Cistern; in fact we literally queued in front of the space for our entrance into the underground cisterns (thank you Bri for your as always unwavering patience as I manically held the photo of the building we were searching for to each structure on the street). Pasha is known as “the Soul of the Armenian Persecutions”, planning and overseeing mass deportations and genocide against Armenians in the Ottoman Empire. As the Minister of the Interior he was the leader of the 1915 – 1917 Armenian Genocide (killing an estimated 800,000 people), living in this building during that time. Following the defeat of the Ottoman Empire after WWI, Pasha moved to Berlin and was sentenced to death in absentia for planning massacres in Trabzon, Yozgat, and Boğazlıyan. The German Ministry of Foreign Affairs denied requests to extradite Pasha and he assassinatedby Armenian Revolutionary Federation member Soghomon Tehlirian in 1921.The Surp Hıreşdagabed Church was transferred from Greek to Armenian ownership in either 1628, 1631, or 1636. Known for its healing powers, the church survived multiple fires and is still used by Armenians, other Christian groups, and Muslims in the city.Next to the Surp Hıreşdagabed Church is what remains of the Khorenyan Armenian Primary School (pictured here). Opened in 1831, attendance grew to 550 students by the 1920s, including orphaned girls from nearby villages. In 1925, the school suffered extensive fire damage and instruction was moved to the churchyard’s building. Used as a tobacco and soap factory before another fire in 1994 nearly destroyed the entire structure, the school closed in 1977 after enrollment dropped to only four Armenian students.
Lublin, Poland:
The New Jewish Cemetery in Lublin (entrance pictured here) is one of the most important Jewish spaces remaining in the city. Established in 1829, the cemetery was virtually destroyed by the Nazis during WWII, with headstones stolen to construct the Czarna Droga (“Black Way”) road at the nearby Majdanek camp. After the war — 99% of Lublin’s Jewish population was murderedduring the Holocaust — the city constructed a road through the cemetery, resulting in the two distinct sites seen today (the second space is pictured below). In the 1980s and especially 1991, efforts were made to restore the cemetery, including the preservation of found headstones, memorials, and the ohel of Rabbi Meir Shapira, the founder of the Yeshiva of the Wise Men of Lublin. Metal menorahs and concrete slabs line the perimeter of the cemetery, a space still used for burials today. The second section of the New Jewish Cemetery is also lined with tombstones. In the center of the park (pictured here) is the monument dedicated to the Jewish community of Lublin, where ashes from those killed at Majdanek were brought here, along with additional found tombstones. The large park is a walkthrough for many of the residents of Lublin and was littered with empty beer cans when I visited this summer. This space, along with the memorial below, are two unique examples of preserving memory efforts that I hope to post in more depth about this year.Located in an industrial site part of the city (8 bus stops — about 30 minutes), Lublin Umschlagplatz is the site where Nazis deported Lublin’s Jewish community to Bełżec in the spring of 1942. Originally a slaughterhouse well connected to railway infrastructure, its use changed during Nazi occupation to a place to hold and transport Jewish families from Lublin. Deportations started the night of March 6th, 1942 after the Lublin ghetto was liquidated; people were forced to walk to this somewhat hidden part of the city (another reason the site was chosen). Following the end of WWII, this place was mostly forgotten, along with its role during the Holocaust. Memorialization here was completed in 2016 and is the final stop on the Memory Trail for the city.I’m looking forward to talking more about these spaces in Poland because I have. a. lot. of thoughts. and. feelings.
Hamburg, Germany:
The colonial history of Hamburg is complex and often overlooked, but its impact can still be seen in the city’s built landscape and wealth. Heinrich Christian Meyer, also known as “Stockmeyer,” is frequently referred to as “Hamburg’s first industrialist”. He and his sons amassed their wealth through the trade of raw materials from Germany’s colonies, along with those occupied by the Dutch and British. One of his sons specifically worked with ivory from present-day Zanzibar; the material was processed in a Hamburg factory. This demand for ivory resulted in devastating consequences including famine, epidemics, and the endangerment of species along the African coast, ultimately leading to a war that solidified the development of German East Africa.Located near Stockmeyerstraße is the Hannoverscher Bahnhof memorial, one of the most unique memorial spaces I’ve seen in Germany. From 1940 – 1945, the Nazis deported more than 8,000 Jewish, Sinti and Roma people from Hamburg to camps across their occupied territories from the Hannoverscher train station, formerly located here. After the station was nearly destroyed during WWII, the space was largely abandoned until the nearby neighborhood began to grow. In the early 2000s, victims of Nazi persecution advocated for the establishment of a memorial here. Commemoration was built on the original tracks of the station’s former Platform 2 with plaques detailing each individual deportation. The site also includes a shipping container documentation center connected to the open air museum and nearby park. When I visited in the summer of 2023, the area was filled with kids playing soccer and folks picnicking and reading in the park adjacent to the memorial, with a few folks walking down this path to Platform 2 (located behind me). Similarly to Lublin, there’s a lot to discuss on how memory is represented in a space that is also still utilized by the people who live there today.Now closed to the public, the enormous Otto von Bismarck monument towers over the St. Pauli quarter; the world’s largest memorial dedicated to the Reich’s chancellor of Imperial Germany (1871 – 1890) and father of German colonialism. The monument was built from 1901 – 1906 and stands at 35 meters (115 feet) high. In 2014, Hamburg dedicated 9 million euros to renovate the deteriorating statue, sparking outrage and discussions on not only how the city’s role in colonialism should be commemorated, but also how public funds and spaces are developed.By 1921, more than 2,000 Chinese people lived in Hamburg — the largest Chinese community in Germany — in the neighborhood of St. Pauli. The Nazi government began surveillance of Chinesenviertel (Chinatown) residents in Hamburg and in 1936, restrictions were placed on the community. The Zentralstelle für Chinesen (Center for Chinese) was established in 1938 to control the number of people of Chinese descent living in the city. The Gestapo arrested Chinese Germans and Chinese Nationals in 1941, sending most to the Arbeitserziehungslager Langer Morgen (“Langer Morgen Labor Camp”) outside of Hamburg. There they were abused, tortured, and worked to death. By the end of WWII, virtually the entire Chinese community was destroyed in Hamburg, and Germany overall. This St. Pauli exhibit details the community that once lived here; Stolpersteine for Chinese victims of the Nazi regime were laid here in 2021. Memorialization at the Langer Morgen Labor Camp is sparse; only a plaque near the bus stop remains.
Majdanek, Poland:
The enormous monuments built at the site of the Majdanek concentration camp located outside of Lublin, Poland. One of the largest camps built under Nazi occupation — an estimated 80,000 people were killed here, a majority Polish Jewish people — Majdanek was captured by the Red Army before much of the site could be destroyed, leaving an incredible amount of original buildings and artifacts. It may be the best-preserved and oldest memorial site of WWII. “Fight and Martyrdom” is the massive monument located at the entrance of the camp memorial. Built by Holocaust survivor and Polish architect Wiktor Tołkin in 1969, the monument can be seen from a great distance. I rode the bus here (filled with grandmas on their way to the market — it was definitely grocery day) and I can’t accurately describe the way “Fight and Martydom” stands out in the landscape. I was jolted seeing it from so far away, looming over everything around, but for everyone who lives in this neighborhood, I’m sure its just a commonplace marker.Located at the end of the camp is the Mausoleum, built in 1947 to house the ashes found in 15 different locations across Majdanek. The shape of a Slavic urn, the monument includes the inscription “Our fate is a warning to you”. Again, a lot of feelings here on how folks visit these “Dark Tourism” sites…“Shrine” (opened in 1999) is an art installation at Majdanek and one of the first of its kind I’d seen at a memorial site. Including music, light, and art, the exhibit is dedicated to the unknown victims of KL Lublin and located in one of the original barracks.
Manchester, United Kingdom:
Manchester hails as the world’s first industrial city. With the nickname Cottonopolis — for its part in developing the textile industry in Europe — not as often discussed is the role of American enslaved labor in building one of the largest municipal economies in the 1800s. In 1830 Manchester was crowned the cotton capital of the world due to its milling and factory labor force, along with the celebrated opening of the first intercity railway (built to ship cotton to Liverpool). These operations were only possible through the importation of cotton grown by enslaved people in the United States. The ship seen here is a symbol of the city’s powerful shipping and trade legacy, its status as “Cottonopolis”.The former textile district of Manchester (Ancoats) housed enormous spinning mills that made the city so profitable. Today, these warehouses have been renovated into expensive luxury apartments. Traders in Manchester highly sought after the unique Sea Island cotton (shown here as part of a display in the city’s Science and Industry Museum), a product grown and harvested by enslaved Africans brought to the Americas for their expertise in cultivating rice, cotton, and other crops in low-lying areas. Today’s descendants of these people include the Gullah Geechee, a community located on the Sea Islands that continue to fight for land and fishing rights, displacement, and their heritage. Gentrification, encroaching tourism, and climate change continue to threaten their culture, property, and way of life. I was again so unsettled seeing the mention of the Sea Islands in a museum in the United Kingdom. Yet another example of the profits made from the labor of enslaved people, barely noted in a sprawling display of British ingenuity, so far from South Carolina. With scarcely a mention on how the trade affected these communities in a narrative celebrating theirs.
Munich, Germany:
A number of powerful people in Germany’s colonial history are buried at Munich’s Old Southern Cemetery; many of whom are marked with large headstones and noted at the entrance of the space. Not listed but are/were buried here are the children Juri and Miranha, as well as the unknown grave of Osman Badià Akafèfè Dallè Theodo, and Cula. Juri and Miranha were kidnapped from Brazil and died after being baptized and “examined” for “scientific” purposes. They were buried here in 1821 and 1822 but their grave became Bavarian Minister of Culture Ludwig August von Müller’s resting place. Their original grave marker is a slab on display in the Munich City Museum, not for Juri and Miranha, but a part of an exhibit on the artist’s bronze work. Originally from Ethiopia (present day Kenya) Osman Badià Akafèfè Dallè Theodo was brought as an enslaved person to Germany in 1838 before dying and being buried here (unmarked grave) in 1841. Cula was forcibly brought to France after troops attacked the Kingdom of Dahomey (present day Benin). While in Germany as part of a “traveling performance troupe” the 17-year old Cula died of pneumonia and was buried here. Her grave no longer exists and in September 1921, her bones were given to the Anthropological Prehistoric Collection.
Extra Special Mentions:
African Quarter Tour, Berlin:
I love learning more about the built landscape of neighborhoods — the cultural significance of names, monuments, the people who live there. This summer I touredBerlin’s African Quarter, understanding more about the history and original purpose of the district, Germany’s colonial exploits, and how the space is used today. The African Quarter was built to include a human zoo of people colonized by Germany before WWI. This corner is related to cities in Namibia, a colony of the Germany’s from 1884 – 1919. The first genocide of the 20th century was carried out against the Ovaherero and Nama people (1904 – 1908) by the German government.
Barbenheimer, Landstuhl:
Had to plan a double feature when the movies open the weekend of your 17th wedding anniversary. Danke to my friend who made these matching shirts!
Ich nähte für uns (“I Sewed for Us.”) Brücke Museum, Berlin:
This summer I was lucky enough to visit Berlin while Małgorzata Mirga-Tas’s exhibit was on display at the Brücke Museum. The Bergitka-Roma artist (from Czarna Góra, Poland) explores “historical narratives as well as contemporary experiences faced by the Roma people”, using mixed materials to show the everyday lives of Roma communities in a way that upends stereotypes and problematic historical and cultural imagery. I loved this exhibit and am in awe Mirga-Tas’ work.
Humboldt Forum Tour, Berlin:
In addition to the African Quarter tour, I also had the opportunity to booka spot discussing the colonial history of the Humboldt Forum. Critically thinking about the curatorial decisions behind how items were brought to a space, the way they are displayed, and the colonial practices still in use today is such an enormous research interest for me. To spend a few hours with an expert was one of the best afternoons of 2023.
Renaissance Tour, Frankfurt:
FINALLY I HAVE SEEN BEYONCE. Seeing Renaissance in person was a dream come true and experiencing not just the tour in person, but also a screening of her documentary a few months later with an amazing friend! Just no words for how amazing Bey is and how grateful I am to have an incredible friend to plan Beyoncé date nights with.
Rhys Darby, Manchester:
We planned a trip to Manchester to see two They Might Be Giants shows and happily added an extra day when I saw that Rhys Darby was in town for his comedy tour. finale. Alas, TMBG cancelled, but seeing Rhys in this lovely venue was such a highlight for me.
Olympic Stadium, Munich:
You know I’m a fan of all things Olympics and visiting the old Munich Park was such an incredible experience! The Germans have reused the space for outdoor activities, indoor water sports, and other venues while maintaining many of the 1972 buildings in all their glory.
Sending love, joy, and naps for 2024 ❤
Currently:
Reading: Ordinary Notes (Christina Sharpe) Watching: For All Mankind (Apple TV+) Listening: Scene On Radio Season 6 (PRX)
she / her I have a lot of Leslie Knope tendencies. Studied political science | sustainable food & justice. I’m a dog mom to the terror duo of Porkchop Reptar and Arya Tonks. Forever an intentional wanderer and admirer of black coffee.
I like inappropriately fake eyelashes and podcasts of the documentary variety. I’m an advocate for building a more radically empathetic world.
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