Kraków, Poland: Kazimierz (Former Jewish Quarter)

[You can read my Kraków Guide here.]

Oh, Kazimierz. My favorite neighborhood in maybe all of Europe? The former Jewish Quarter is unique, fun, and has a blend of new shops and historic sites. I love this quirky district and discover something new every time I visit.

This homage to Gene Kelly was created by street artist Kuba as a representation of the city’s regeneration.

Located south of Old Town and north of Podgórze, Kazimierz was the center of Jewish life for over 500 years before being completely destroyed by Nazi occupation in WWII. The district further deteriorated under communism, but has since become one of the most unique neighborhoods in Central Europe.

Kazimierz Historical Mural, ul. Józefa 17
Created by Piotr Janowczyk in 2015, the mural features a number of icons from Kraków’s history including this portrait of King Kazimierz.

Kazimierz was founded by King Kazimierz the Great in 1335. Jewish populations began moving to the neighborhood in 1495 and the town grew in influence during the Middle Ages. After overcoming anti-Jewish riots, famine, and surviving a Swedish invasion, the town flourished under Austrian control in 1796 when Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. The occupying Austrians forced all of Kraków’s Jewish population to resettle into Kazimierz, which led to a huge growth in culture for the area; over 50,000 Jews lived here when the Nazis invaded Poland. During WWII, Kazimierz’s Jewish population was forced to relocate to the ghetto in Podgórze, with a majority then sent to Bełżec and Płaszów. Less than 5,000 survived the German genocide.

The New Jewish Cemetery

Today the district is one of the most unique neighborhoods in all of Central Europe: cozy cafes, amazing restaurants, a growing art scene, and tiny pubs alongside many of the most important Jewish cultural sites in all of Poland. My recommendation is to spend as much time here as you can and admire not only the beautiful street art and tasty local cuisine, but make an effort to visit the sites important to the Jewish culture that once thrived there.

A note: this post does include photographs of Jewish cemeteries in Kazimierz. This by no means is meant to exploit those buried there, but as a way to tell the story of the events that occurred at these sites. I highly recommend spending time walking through the older cemeteries in Kraków.

While I refer to these locations as “sites” I hope that those who visit bring the utmost respect and intent when visiting Kazimierz. You can read more about my feelings here.

The Sites:

Bosak House: Plac Bawół 3:

The beautiful street art piece was created by Broken Fingaz for the city’s 24th Jewish Culture Festival (2014).
Located on the edge of the Kraków ghetto, the piece was dedicated to the Bosak family who lived in this home for 400 years prior to the German occupation of Poland. They moved to Israel to escape Nazi persecution.
The building is now vacant as the family has not returned to Poland since the end of WWII.

Old Synagogue (Stara Bożnica):

The Old Synagogue (referred to in Yiddish as Alta Shul) is the oldest synagogue still standing in Poland. Built in either 1407 or 1492, the building is unique as it is considered a Polish Fortress synagogue.
During the Nazi occupation of WWII, the synagogue was completely ransacked and all Jewish relics were stolen or destroyed. The Germans used the site as a warehouse; thirty Polish hostages were also murdered here. Following the end of the war, the building was renovated and is currently a museum.

Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery:

The smallest historic synagogue in Kasimierz, the Remuh Synagogue is also one of only two active synagogues in the district. Built in 1553, Shabbat services still take place here every Friday.
The interior of the synagogue.
During Nazi occupation, the building was used as a warehouse for body bags and fire equipment.
The Remuh Cemetery, also known as the Old Jewish Cemetery of Kraków, was established in 1535 and is no longer active. During the Nazi occupation of Poland, the cemetery was destroyed and most of the tombstones were used as paving stones in concentration camps. While many of the stones were returned after the war ended, not all missing stones were found.

Galicia Jewish Museum:

This mural by Marcin Wierzchowski is on the side of the Galicia Jewish Museum and features one of the largest menorahs in Poland.
The images on either side of the menorah depict pre- and post- industrialization Jewish life. The museum itself holds a number of photography exhibitions on Jewish life and culture in Galicia (the geographic location between Central and Eastern Europe).

The New Jewish Cemetery:

The New Jewish Cemetery was founded in 1800 after the Remuh Cemetery was full. Once 20 hectares, only 4.5 (11 acres) of the site remain.
When this cemetery was full in 1930, two new cemeteries were opened in the Podgórze Płaszów district, but these were destroyed by the Nazis, who then built the Płaszów concentration camp in their place.
During German occupation, most of the tombstones were sold as building materials. A number were also used to line the courtyard of Amon Goeth’s villa, located on the eastern side of the Płaszów camp.
The cemetery currently holds 10,000 tombstones.
Portions and shards of tombstones recovered after the war were used to create the wall within the cemetery. This wall also serves as a memorial to the millions who were murdered during the Holocaust.

Restaurants & Pubs:

Marchewka z Groszkiem (Peas and Carrots):

THE ABSOLUTE BEST PLACE. Marchewka z Groszkiem was highly recommended by Krakow-native friends of a friend; I’m so thankful they told us about this adorable restaurant. With many options to choose from, I just basically ordered enough food for five people (no regrets) and loved every single thing. Look at this menu!
These are spinach+sheep’s cheese and sauerkraut+mushroom.
Spinach and garlic pierogi covered in a blue cheese sauce. I’m not even a fan of blue cheese but these were AMAZING.
Strawberry and mascarpone.
Crispy potato pancakes with sour cream.
Green pea and carrot soup.

Bonus tip: check out Lokator right across the street for books and coffee!

Bhajan Cafe:

Located right on the border of Old Town and Kazimierz, Bhajan Cafe is a vegan and vegetarian Indian restaurant with a great menu. A perfect spot for lunch on your trip through the different districts of Kraków.

Shops:

As You Like It Bookshop:

Although technically located in Old Town, As You Like It Bookshop is right on the border to Kazimierz and across the street from Bhujan Cafe, so I wanted to include this adorable shop in this post. Just minutes from Wawel Castle, this bookstore is small but offers a ton of different English titles including new releases, and books on Polish history. They also carry cards and locally-made reading accessories. A perfect stop on your way from Old Town to Kazimierz!
Photo via Facebook.

Unikke Design & Friends:

Established by Olga Guzik, Unnike Design is a beautiful jewelry shop that specializes in, you guessed it, unique pieces. I actually met Guzik while in the Polish city of Gdańsk, where she was selling a number of her gorgeous pieces. A former member of the Polish Shooting team, the economist turned designer specializes in incorporating her all of her passions into her work; she uses old bullets with the motto “better wear than used” etched into bracelets and necklaces.
Photo via In Your Pocket.

Lookarna Illustrations:

Artist Renia Loj designs hand-drawn postcards, magnets, and other paper goods. Lookarna Illustrations is her adorable shop stocked with all of her beautiful and unique pieces.

You have to love all the quirkiness of Kazimierz 🤍

Taking pierogi back to Hungary.
Esterka, the Jewish mistress of King Kazimierz the Great, was known for her beauty and inspired many Polish authors.

Currently:
Watching: Little Fires Everywhere (Hulu)
Reading: Being Heumann: An Unrepentant Memoir of a Disability Rights Activist (Judith Heumann)

One thought on “Kraków, Poland: Kazimierz (Former Jewish Quarter)

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