Kraków, Poland: Kazimierz (Former Jewish Quarter)

[You can read my Kraków Guide here.]

Oh, Kazimierz. My favorite neighborhood in maybe all of Europe? The former Jewish Quarter is unique, fun, and has a blend of new shops and historic sites. I love this quirky district and discover something new every time I visit.

*This homage to Gene Kelly was created by street artist Kuba as a representation of the city’s regeneration.*

Located south of Old Town and north of Podgórze, Kazimierz was the center of Jewish life for over 500 years before being completely destroyed by Nazi occupation in WWII. The district further deteriorated under communism, but has since become one of the most unique neighborhoods in Central Europe.

Kazimierz Historical Mural, ul. Józefa 17
Created by Piotr Janowczyk in 2015, the mural features a number of icons from Kraków’s history including this portrait of King Kazimierz.

Kazimierz was founded by King Kazimierz the Great in 1335. Jewish populations began moving to the neighborhood in 1495 and the town grew in influence during the Middle Ages. After overcoming anti-Jewish riots, famine, and surviving a Swedish invasion, the town flourished under Austrian control in 1796 when Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. The occupying Austrians forced all of Kraków’s Jewish population to resettle into Kazimierz, which led to a huge growth in culture for the area; over 50,000 Jews lived here when the Nazis invaded Poland. During WWII, Kazimierz’s Jewish population was forced to relocate to the ghetto in Podgórze, with a majority then sent to Bełżec and Płaszów. Less than 5,000 survived the German genocide.

Today the district is one of the most unique neighborhoods in all of Central Europe: cozy cafes, amazing restaurants, a growing art scene, and tiny pubs alongside many of the most important Jewish cultural sites in all of Poland. My recommendation is to spend as much time here as you can and admire not only the beautiful street art and tasty local cuisine, but make an effort to visit the sites important to the Jewish culture that once thrived there.

A note: this post does include photographs of Jewish cemeteries in Kazimierz. This by no means is meant to exploit those buried there, but as a way to tell the story of the events that occurred at these sites. I highly recommend spending time walking through the older cemeteries in Kraków.

The Tempel Synagogue was built from 1860-1862. Ruined by the Nazis during WWII–they used the space for ammunition storage–financial contributions in the late 1990s paid for renovations to the building. Prayers are now held here a few times a year.

While I refer to these locations as “sites” I hope that those who visit bring the utmost respect and intent when visiting Kazimierz. You can read more about my feelings here.

The Sites:

Bosak House: Plac Bawół 3:

*The beautiful street art piece was created by Broken Fingaz for the city’s 24th Jewish Culture Festival (2014).*

Located on the edge of the Kraków ghetto, the piece was dedicated to the Bosak family who lived in this home for 400 years prior to the German occupation of Poland. They moved to Israel to escape Nazi persecution.

*The building is now vacant as the family has not returned to Poland since the end of WWII.*

Old Synagogue (Stara Bożnica):

The Old Synagogue (referred to in Yiddish as Alta Shul) is the oldest synagogue still standing in Poland. Built in either 1407 or 1492, the building is unique as it is considered a Polish Fortress synagogue.

During the Nazi occupation of WWII, the synagogue was completely ransacked and all Jewish relics were stolen or destroyed. The Germans used the site as a warehouse; thirty Polish hostages were also murdered here. Following the end of the war, the building was renovated and is currently a museum.

Remuh Synagogue and Cemetery:

*The smallest historic synagogue in Kasimierz, the Remuh Synagogue is also one of only two active synagogues in the district. Built in 1553, Shabbat services still take place here every Friday.*

The interior of the synagogue.
During Nazi occupation, the building was used as a warehouse for body bags and fire equipment.

The Remuh Cemetery, also known as the Old Jewish Cemetery of Kraków, was established in 1535 and is no longer active. During the Nazi occupation of Poland, the cemetery was destroyed and most of the tombstones were used as paving stones in concentration camps. While many of the stones were returned after the war ended, not all missing stones were found.

Galicia Jewish Museum:

The images on either side of the menorah depict pre- and post- industrialization Jewish life. The museum itself holds a number of photography exhibitions on Jewish life and culture in Galicia (the geographic location between Central and Eastern Europe).

The New Jewish Cemetery:

When this cemetery was full in 1930, two new cemeteries were opened in the Podgórze Płaszów district, but these were destroyed by the Nazis, who then built the Płaszów concentration camp in their place.

During German occupation, most of the tombstones were sold as building materials. A number were also used to line the courtyard of Amon Goeth’s villa, located on the eastern side of the Płaszów camp.

*The cemetery currently holds 10,000 tombstones.*

*Portions and shards of tombstones recovered after the war were used to create the wall within the cemetery. This wall also serves as a memorial to the millions who were murdered during the Holocaust.*

Restaurants & Pubs:

Marchewka z Groszkiem (Peas and Carrots):

THE ABSOLUTE BEST PLACE. **Marchewka z Groszkiem** was highly recommended by Krakow-native friends of a friend; I’m so thankful they told us about this adorable restaurant. With many options to choose from, I just basically ordered enough food for five people (no regrets) and loved every single thing. Look at this **menu**!
These are spinach+sheep’s cheese and sauerkraut+mushroom.

*Spinach and garlic pierogi covered in a blue cheese sauce. I’m not even a fan of blue cheese but these were AMAZING.*

*Crispy potato pancakes with sour cream.*

*Green pea and carrot soup.*

*Bonus tip: check out **Lokator** right across the street for books and coffee!*

Bhajan Cafe:

Hamsa Hummus & Happiness:

*With a name like **Hummus and Happiness**, how can you go wrong?* *Specializing in Israeli cuisine, this restaurant has a great menu and all their dishes are extremely reasonably priced.*

*They also boast a gorgeous dining area. We had brunch here twice because there were so many great menu items to try.*

Ranny Ptaszek:

This woman-owned, LGBTQIA+ friendly, feminist **cafe** specializes in vegetarian breakfast and brunch! One of my favorite finds in the city, I love this gem.
*(Notice the “girls just want to have fundamental rights” sign <3)*

*Spicy shakshuka with veggie “sausage” and chickpeas.*

Cheder:

This vegetarian Middle Eastern-inspired **restaurant** is run by the Jewish Culture Festival. They also boast the only free and public reading room in the city with hundreds of books on Jewish and Middle Eastern culture available.

Mleczarnia:

*We spent a relaxing afternoon at this adorable pub with a gorgeous vi*ew.

Eszeweria Bar:

I LOVE this cute garden bar!
(photo via Facebook)

*I’m trying to live here forever, thank you.*

Propaganda Pub:

*One of the oldest pubs in Kraków, this communist themed bar is one of my favorites.*

Królicze Oczy:

*Love this vintage pub with eyes that follow you everywhere; bonus points for being located across from the best open air zapiekanka stand (Polish pizza boats with tons of toppings) in the city.*

Knitted Coffee Cafe:

*How can I not be obsessed with a cafe of the knitting theme with delicious coffee? This place is adorable and their beans are legit.*

Shops:

As You Like It Bookshop:

Unikke Design & Friends:

Established by Olga Guzik, **Unnike Design** is a beautiful jewelry shop that specializes in, you guessed it, unique pieces. I actually met Guzik while in the Polish city of Gdańsk, where she was selling a number of her gorgeous pieces. A former member of the Polish Shooting team, the economist turned designer specializes in incorporating her all of her passions into her work; she uses old bullets with the motto “better wear than used” etched into bracelets and necklaces.
Photo via In Your Pocket.

Lookarna Illustrations:

You have to love all the quirkiness of Kazimierz 🤍

*Esterka, the Jewish mistress of King Kazimierz the Great, was known for her beauty and inspired many Polish authors.*

Currently:
Watching: Little Fires Everywhere (Hulu)
Reading: Being Heumann: An Unrepentant Memoir of a Disability Rights Activist (Judith Heumann)

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